Tanger and Chefchaouen

Feb 1. 

We had a lot of car time yesterday.  We left Casablanca at 9am and drove for five hours (with a loo and coffee break).  

We stopped at a Lebanese place in Tanger so we could have a quick lunch.  It as not quick.  And they were out of hummus so a disappointment all round.  Then we had a walk through the Kasba and the old Medina (add 'rock the' and 'funky' to those and you are stuck with some music in your head forever).

Then back in the van for another couple of hours to get to Chefchaouen.  What can I say about this town.  It is built into a mountain and it is one of the most beautiful places that I have ever visited.  Blue everywhere.  Every turn is another photo op.  And cats!  So many cats in a country of cats.  Every cat is another photo op.  

We got to our hotel.  Hotel Madrid.  It is as Moroccan as you can get.  Tiles and colours everywhere. 

Then we went for dinner.  I wasn't very hungry.  I hadn't slept well that night before but FOMO so I went.  Goat cheese with fig syrup and quince jam.  

On the way out, I saw a painting on the wall.  I LOVED it.  I wanted it.  I asked if it might be for sale.  Mohammed asked, many men conferring and phoning bosses.  The word from  on high - $700 US.  Uh, thanks but no can do.  But as we were just going out the door, one of the many men said, come back tomorrow and I can take you to the painter and you can see what else he has.  Ok, I'll see. And off we all went.  

The group went to a bar but I just couldn't so I came back to the hotel and went to bed at 9:30.  I woke up this morning at 6:30 so hopefully I am on Morocco time now.  

This morning, half the group had paid for a walking tour to a lake and lunch.  I passed.  But I did want to go up to the Spanish Mosque on the hill overlooking the city.  Some others were going to head up there at 10 but I didn't want to slow them down so I left at 9 on my own.  And got lost, of course.  But what a town to be lost in.  And before everyone was out in the street.  So many empty blue alleys and sleepy cats to see! 

Eventually I managed to find the path/staircase to the mosque.  Just as the sun was coming up over the hill.  The cool kid thing to do here is to head to the Spanish mosque at sunset.  But sunrise was pretty cool too (says the not cool kid). 

The sun just starting to hit the city.

As I was just far enough away from the hotel, I realized I forgot my second camera battery.  Don't waste the battery I said, no cute animal pictures.  Here's how well I did (a small sampling):

I headed back down to town.  I remembered about Abdul  the guy who said he knows the artist of the painting I wanted.  There was an artist's studio right as I walked into the square. I popped in to see, maybe it's my guy. Not my guy.  But explaining why I am standing in the middle of his studio, I showed him the picture and asked if he knows the artist. No, he doesn't but he can paint me the picture.  No, I don't have time.  And I still think I can find the original artist.  No worries, he says.  He will paint it and if at the end of the day I don't want it, he can sell it to someone else.  Ok.  Go for it.  

Then I stopped at the Kasbah.  Which is a walled fort/castle thing in the centre of old cities, usually near the medina from what I can tell with my extensive experience seeing two kasbahs.  

Then, find Abdul and see a man about a painting.  I managed to retrace my steps from the night before by saying things like "these are probably the stairs with the kitten from last night', 'This is the store with the ugly pants' etc. until I found the place.  I asked for Abdul.  Much confusion until we found the right Abdul.  Again, many men conferring.  Eventually, one of them was assigned to take me to the artist. 

We go to a blue door (they're all blue) where Abdul 2 (I didn't actually get this guy's name so this is what we are going to call him) pounded on the door for a while.  No go.  No problem, we can go to his studio, this is his house.  Off we go, me trailing behind.  We got to the studio, which was in fact some guy's house, thankfully no one expected me to go in, and the 'artist' brought out some of his cat painting.  NOT my artist, not even close.  Ok, I said, thanks for trying.  And off I walk.  Within minutes Abdul 2 finds me again, the first place is open, come come!  So, I go go.  Again, not the right artist.  He dragged out every cat painting he had.  I'm not looking for a cat painting, I just liked that cat painting. The colour, the composition, not just the cat!  But I did buy one little painting from this guy.  

I thanked Abdul 2 and said I hoped he gets a commission for bringing me to the shop.  No, but if I buy something at the shop he does work for, a woman's cooperative for rugs.  Sure, why the heck not.  I have the day free.  

I don't need a rug I announced as I was sat.  But, and here is where I went wrong, I might need a tablecloth.  So many tablecloths were produced and spread out before me.  And, they were all so nice.  And hand woven.  But women in the cooperative.  aak, I bought three!  But I did get away without a rug!  And for that, we can be amazed and thankful.  

Where they weave

How about this one?

Any of these?  All of these?  

We can wrap and ship whatever you want...

After that narrow escape, I decided to head back to the hotel. Plus my battery was on it's last legs.  But I found Kim and Eric, the American couple and they were just heading out to lunch.  Join us!  Ok!

We went to the seafood restaurant owned by the same guy as they place we went last night.  Abdul 2 was there.  When we arrived, I was his good friend, by the time we left, I was his sister.  

Tea

Paella

Yogurt with fig sauce and marmalade

After lunch, since my search for the original artist of my painting was not to be found, I went back to the other artist, Said, the one who was currently painting me a copy.  I arrived and he was nowhere to be found but the painting was there, half done.  Since I was standing there, men were forced to confer.  Said was called away from his lunch and he arrived.  So far so good.  Carry on.  

Back to the hotel to meet the group for dinner.  I was telling the story of my painting and the special ordered copy.  I was worried that we were in a fancy restaurant and I could tell we weren't getting out of there in under an hour. Mohammed took over, called Said, and told him to bring the painting to us.   And he did.  It was all so crazy.  He unfurled the painting.  By now the entire group is involved.  He got a round of applause.  It is good.  Not original painting good but I like it.  He quickly wrapped it up (so no picture, I'm sorry to say).  A price was agreed upon and that was that.  

Now I am back in the hotel, in the dining room for the decent (relatively) wifi.  But I am off to bed. We have an early day tomorrow.  I have no idea where we are going next but I'll let you know.